“],” filter “: {” nextExceptions “:” img, blockquote, div “,” nextContainsExceptions “:” img, blockquote “}}”>
Get full access to Outside Learn, our online education center with in-depth fitness, nutrition and adventure courses and over 2,000 instructional videos when you sign up for Outside +> “,” name “:” in-content-cta “,” type “:” link “}}”> Join Outside + today.
Shinichiro Nomura, from Ibaraki, Japan, made its transition from plastic to the outdoors in December 2017. He dreamed of Yosemite and started bouldering locally to acclimatize to real rock. He has since laid 32 stones over V14.
“I’m trapped by boulders,” he said. Climb via email.
Nomura started climbing at the age of 9. He finished first in Juniors Lead and Bouldering categories in the Asian Youth Championships and seventh in the 2016 Youth World Championships. It’s been four years since he switched outdoors, and the 25-year-old has been tapping hard stones one after the other. Earlier this year, he lifted the ante and made the first climb of Gakido (V16), his first of the grade. Since its discovery 20 years ago, Gakido was one of Japan’s longest running projects and received numerous attempts by V16 breakers, including Ryuichi Murai.
Nomura started projecting Gakido after being invited to sit in a gym in Fukushima Prefecture. The rock is nearby, so the owner of the gym suggested that Nomura try it and told him: “Everyone thinks it is impossible to solve. … You have to try it! ” Nomura left the next day.
“When I saw the rock in person, all the blows and trouble went further than I thought,” he wrote. However, the crutches seemed possible and he immediately got to work.
The rock is just four desperate moves, followed by the topout of the neighboring V6. At first, it felt too hard to climb through the crutch movement – a dead end from a right oblique side pull and a no-shadow foot to a left side pull – despite his initial optimism. Nomura felt discouraged.
“After a few days, the impression of the crutches was stuck in my brain, so I researched more about the project,” he wrote. “When they asked climbers what they had tried, everyone said: ‘I feel it is possible, but I also feel it is impossible.’ I had the same contradictory feeling.
“Then I set myself back and remembered what I had to think consistently as I climbed: Be curious about the unknown. This is why I was not only keen on competitions, but also on rock. I really want to know and explore the maximum level of climbing. The core of Gakido is unknown. To send it has meant shifting the limit that has been climbing in Japan for 20 years. ”
Nomura went back for round two and then sent on day three. He called it Gakido for his climbing team, “Rokudo”, which means The Six Paths in Buddhist cosmology. Gakido is one of those six empires.
The world’s toughest campus move? Watch Ryuichi Murai on the FA of “Floating” (V16)
Nomura exercises six days a week, one to two hours per session, and works on powerful rocks on a spray wall. Because he is 5’3 “, Nomura wrote that he focuses on achievable movements.
Nomura tried other V16s before shipping Gakido, inclusive Sit Off the Wagon in Switzerland and Floatin, Unitedand Nayuta In Japan. He hopes to return for Floatin and Nayuta this year. “After that, I want to try rocks abroad,” he wrote.
And the dream of climbing great walls did not leave him. “I do not have a specific route in mind, but I still want to go to Yosemite a lot.”
Why I lied to rattle at the end of my rope
English
French
Spanish